Rule number one: remember that you CAN do it

Something unusual happened when I peeked over the rail at my local break yesterday. It was little…and I was actually disappointed. I chugged anti-anxiety drops on the way to my break and had pumped myself up for a confidence-building-progressive surf. … Continue reading


The summer northerly has finally decided to grace us with her presence! Offshore conditions *dances around excitedly*! For the first time this week, I’ve paddled out without cold dread and anxiety gnawing on my stomach lining and making me feel … Continue reading

Why do I freak out in onshore close-outs?

I waxed my board extra well this morning (to avoid any more slips like last week) and then stood watching the waves. Hopes of practising the unbroken waves went tra-la-la-la-la-la’ing away. Onshore, close outs. At least 4 foot. Nope nope … Continue reading

Who put a banana peel on my surfboard?

I finally, finally, FINALLY got to taste my beloved salty water again this morning. Complete with a new car that will successfully and safely get me from A to B, I tromped off down to the beach for dawn patrol. … Continue reading

Am I fit? Yes…But no!

This blog has been a chronicle of my journey from kook surfer to a beginner surfer on the cusp of becoming a beginner-intermediate. It has gone from when my disorder was loud and affecting my everyday life to now when it only pops … Continue reading