I didn’t surf for pretty much three months. It’s awful, isn’t it. The more I put it off, the more anxious and depressed I got about it. I’ve been busy with university, my job, my placement, competing on my horse … Continue reading
It’s very disappointing when we don’t get the time in the water that we want (and we convince ourselves we need). I haven’t tasted a good wave since I got back from New South Wales, over a month ago…Erm…wait…Make that … Continue reading
I wonder how people jump off cliffs with their surfboards to get to great breaks. You know what I mean. It’s in almost every surf film. Surfer courageously takes the drop and then joins with their surfboard on their way to their next great adventure together. I really wonder if bravery is something one gets from surfing, or if one is inherently brave to begin surfing.
Are we brave as surfers or just brave surfers?
I constantly hate myself and my surfing because I am anxious, cautious and timid, and my surfing suffers from this. I talk myself out of waves all the time and I have unfortunately been victim of too many panic attacks out in the water to admit to. But people that don’t surf look at what I do and tell me they could never do that. There’s a four-foot wave about to break in front of me. I try my hardest to duck dive and try to get through. A wall of ugly grey water surges up behind me. I’m in the wrong spot (as usual) and I am about to be chucked over the falls. I either pull back (if I can) or I just relax into the tumble of the “hold-down”. Other people wouldn’t even step into the water.
So I suppose that is all I have to think about the next time my anxiety gets the better of me. Just by entering the water, I am already brave. I got this.
Well HELLO. I do apologise for the lack of consistency in my posting lately.
I have been a very busy little bee.
If you follow my Instagram (which you do, right?) (@surfandfitnessjourney) you’ll know that I haven’t disappeared but I have been travelling!
I spent some time on the New South Wales South Coast and got quite a bit of surfing in.
I surfed at Merimbula Bar, Merimbula Main Beach and Tathra Beach. I did take my board to Pambula Rivermouth but it was shallow and barrelling like Indo so I respectfully sat on the beach and just watched the waves peel and spit. What amazed me most about the surfing in South Coast NSW is that there are IMPECCABLE waves…and no one out. The most people I had to share the waves with was about four people on a Saturday morning.
When I came home, I was inspired to better my surfing. I hadn’t been out that much before travelling north and getting my hair wet really inspired me to keep training – because I’m still a hopeless case! I rocked up to my local at noon on a Wednesday. The car park was full. The line-up was carnage. We had beautiful offshore crystal conditions but it was the middle of a working day! It was astounding that so many people surf in New South Wales but the breaks are blissfully uncrowded.
Unfortunately, despite the water being a toasty 16 degrees and having less wind than down in Victoria, I was still plagued with a sore ear. I dropped into a surf shop to pick up some ear plugs but the shopkeep (small world = he was originally from my local) told me if I have surfer’s ear, there is nothing I can do but get the surgery. I’m not that hardcore. But I also don’t want to have to stay out of the water in winter just because of an ear ache!
I got some ear plugs when I got back home so I’ll try them coupled with my hoodie and I’ll see how I go.
Sorry for the splurge but I have a lot to update!
Stay posted x
I’m currently doing my placement in a high school. Yes, I want to be a teacher. No, I don’t want to teach high school. My degree covers from prep/foundation (year level 0) all the way to year twelve (final year) … Continue reading
It was freezing cold this morning but I had a secret weapon…my new 4/3 wetsuit that I got for my birthday! Armed with my new wetsuit and my support crew (the boyfriend) sitting on the beach, I paddled out into … Continue reading
Social media has allowed me to connect with many wonderful people as I’ve learned to surf. I met a really rad surfie woman (mermaid) from the Mornington Peninsula via Instagram. Her name is Jane. We’ve been trying to organise a … Continue reading
I love my new surfboard because it’s fun, fast, sexy and mine. I also love my new surfboard because it will teach me a lot more. My journey continues! I have a whole new world of surfing to be introduced … Continue reading
I had a great feeling before I surfed on Tuesday. No anxiety whatsoever. Usually I have to chug a bit (a lot) of Bach remedy to quell my nerves but I didn’t need it the other morning. I carried my … Continue reading
I was absolutely thrilled with the first surf I had on my new board. It had rained relentlessly with the storm front since the day before but I wasn’t going to let a bit of rain and thunder scare me off. … Continue reading