Already brave

I wonder how people jump off cliffs with their surfboards to get to great breaks. You know what I mean. It’s in almost every surf film. Surfer courageously takes the drop and then joins with their surfboard on their way to their next great adventure together. I really wonder if bravery is something one gets from surfing, or if one is inherently brave to begin surfing.

Are we brave as surfers or just brave surfers?

I constantly hate myself and my surfing because I am anxious, cautious and timid, and my surfing suffers from this. I talk myself out of waves all the time and I have unfortunately been victim of too many panic attacks out in the water to admit to. But people that don’t surf look at what I do and tell me they could never do that. There’s a four-foot wave about to break in front of me. I try my hardest to duck dive and try to get through. A wall of ugly grey water surges up behind me. I’m in the wrong spot (as usual) and I am about to be chucked over the falls. I either pull back (if I can) or I just relax into the tumble of the “hold-down”. Other people wouldn’t even step into the water.

So I suppose that is all I have to think about the next time my anxiety gets the better of me. Just by entering the water, I am already brave. I got this.

The sea scares me but I love it too much to stay away

The sea scares me but I love it too much to stay away

To tackle the rocks or not?


As some of you may know, I’ve had a run-in with rocks in the past, so now I’m cautious of rocky/reef breaks. I wasn’t injured in my graceful dismount but my board was. I’m hesitant to enter rocky water again. Sure, I can steer my board a lot better than I could when I dinged poor Board, but I still feel like a hopeless case when it comes to surfing.

The wave at the break in the photo does not look intimidating and it looks like a good practising spot for those green waves – being that it peels and doesn’t close-out in a big steep DUMP YOU fashion like the waves I usually practise on. But the rocks! Rocks and I are not really good friends…but, as a man I met last week told me: ‘Nah, the rocks are all right; you just bounce on ’em a bit.’

Rocks and I need to become friends if I am going to progress as a surfer. I need to get over my fear of localism too. Trying out different breaks will help my surfing, and there are only a handful of sandy beaches around. I think it’s time to toughen up and try some rocky point breaks instead of dumpy beach breaks. I suppose I can always fix my board if I ding it; I have “the savvy” now.

 Time to toughen up sweet cheeks. Right. Rocky point break is my next stop…After my toe heals because I kind of, sort of, kind of…hmm. How to put this without sounding like an utter kook? Well. What the heck. I am a kook so here goes: Toe met a sticky kooky-landing yesterday and is now, rather, um…mongoloid. Ah well. Kooks will never learn not to break things like little phalanges and surfboards.