Already brave

I wonder how people jump off cliffs with their surfboards to get to great breaks. You know what I mean. It’s in almost every surf film. Surfer courageously takes the drop and then joins with their surfboard on their way to their next great adventure together. I really wonder if bravery is something one gets from surfing, or if one is inherently brave to begin surfing.

Are we brave as surfers or just brave surfers?

I constantly hate myself and my surfing because I am anxious, cautious and timid, and my surfing suffers from this. I talk myself out of waves all the time and I have unfortunately been victim of too many panic attacks out in the water to admit to. But people that don’t surf look at what I do and tell me they could never do that. There’s a four-foot wave about to break in front of me. I try my hardest to duck dive and try to get through. A wall of ugly grey water surges up behind me. I’m in the wrong spot (as usual) and I am about to be chucked over the falls. I either pull back (if I can) or I just relax into the tumble of the “hold-down”. Other people wouldn’t even step into the water.

So I suppose that is all I have to think about the next time my anxiety gets the better of me. Just by entering the water, I am already brave. I got this.

The sea scares me but I love it too much to stay away

The sea scares me but I love it too much to stay away

Bronte Beach here I come

I must be getting braver.

Or inspired.

Or just really love the ocean and passion for marine conservation.

 

I decided to book a plane ticket to Sydney so I could go to An Afternoon by the Sea with Tim Winton. I’ll be spending the day there and I’ll try the New South Wales water for a day. I woke up this morning thinking did I really just book a flight on a whim? Yes I did. Tim Winton has inspired me to be the best author I can possibly be, all while standing for everything the ocean is. I cannot wait to listen to his motivational speech and volunteer for some marine conservational work.

Bronte Beach here I come.