I didn’t surf for pretty much three months. It’s awful, isn’t it. The more I put it off, the more anxious and depressed I got about it. I’ve been busy with university, my job, my placement, competing on my horse … Continue reading
I wonder how people jump off cliffs with their surfboards to get to great breaks. You know what I mean. It’s in almost every surf film. Surfer courageously takes the drop and then joins with their surfboard on their way to their next great adventure together. I really wonder if bravery is something one gets from surfing, or if one is inherently brave to begin surfing.
Are we brave as surfers or just brave surfers?
I constantly hate myself and my surfing because I am anxious, cautious and timid, and my surfing suffers from this. I talk myself out of waves all the time and I have unfortunately been victim of too many panic attacks out in the water to admit to. But people that don’t surf look at what I do and tell me they could never do that. There’s a four-foot wave about to break in front of me. I try my hardest to duck dive and try to get through. A wall of ugly grey water surges up behind me. I’m in the wrong spot (as usual) and I am about to be chucked over the falls. I either pull back (if I can) or I just relax into the tumble of the “hold-down”. Other people wouldn’t even step into the water.
So I suppose that is all I have to think about the next time my anxiety gets the better of me. Just by entering the water, I am already brave. I got this.
I’m currently doing my placement in a high school. Yes, I want to be a teacher. No, I don’t want to teach high school. My degree covers from prep/foundation (year level 0) all the way to year twelve (final year) … Continue reading
It was freezing cold this morning but I had a secret weapon…my new 4/3 wetsuit that I got for my birthday! Armed with my new wetsuit and my support crew (the boyfriend) sitting on the beach, I paddled out into … Continue reading
I love my new surfboard because it’s fun, fast, sexy and mine. I also love my new surfboard because it will teach me a lot more. My journey continues! I have a whole new world of surfing to be introduced … Continue reading
I had a great feeling before I surfed on Tuesday. No anxiety whatsoever. Usually I have to chug a bit (a lot) of Bach remedy to quell my nerves but I didn’t need it the other morning. I carried my … Continue reading
I was absolutely thrilled with the first surf I had on my new board. It had rained relentlessly with the storm front since the day before but I wasn’t going to let a bit of rain and thunder scare me off. … Continue reading
Everybody, meet Blue. My new board arrived and I picked it up Thursday morning. Unfortunately, the surf was flat so I had nowhere to ride it! So I planned to take it out this evening – what do you know, … Continue reading
My interest is piqued as I get out of my car and hear the calming buzz of the ocean. I look out at the blue water and my toes tingle with excitement. Smooth lines, but not too big that I … Continue reading
I know I write a lot about being nervous when it’s onshore, but I mostly get nervous when those huge sets up the back of the beach break stem up from seemingly nowhere and crash down like a building collapsing after being … Continue reading