Whenever anything isn’t quite right, I either eat a lot or go to the beach. I much prefer doing the latter. Days go by so quickly; it’s challenging to stay afloat. Coping and dealing are two ends of a management … Continue reading
I love my new surfboard because it’s fun, fast, sexy and mine. I also love my new surfboard because it will teach me a lot more. My journey continues! I have a whole new world of surfing to be introduced … Continue reading
I had a great feeling before I surfed on Tuesday. No anxiety whatsoever. Usually I have to chug a bit (a lot) of Bach remedy to quell my nerves but I didn’t need it the other morning. I carried my … Continue reading
I first stood up on a wave on January 1st, 2013, on an 8’0 soft-top foam board at Smiths Beach, Phillip Island.
I went surfing again February 5th, 2013, on the same board at the same place. Then my life went downhill and it was a while before I could step out and go surfing again. October 2013, I went surfing again and decided that surfing would be my saviour from the darkness.
I got my surfboard November 28th 2013 but it took me until after Christmas to find the courage to go out and give it a surf. I’d wanted a surfboard and wanted to be a surfer girl for as long as I could remember. I finally had the board and a strange delirium took me over. I had such trepidation about actually getting out there on my very own 7’6 Mini-mal that it took me almost exactly a month before I actually used it.
That trepidation is playing out even now, with my second board, a 6’4 fun board.
On my 7’6, I catch waves. I can steer and do basic turns. But I get out the back on any day over 1.5ft and I get nervous. In fact, I get scared. I don’t even know why. On my 7’6 board, I am not confident to try for waves.
However, on my 6’4, I know I can get out the back without being too pounded by the impact zone. It’s lighter and easier to paddle and turn. So I paddle enthusiastically out the back, even on days when the surf is bigger than I know I should be attempting. It’s 8ft? No worries. I’ll give it a go. Worst that will happen is I’ll get dumped. And I do. Oh boy do I get dumped. And thumped. I mean, absolutely-annihilated-thumped but I am absolutely-fine with it.
I don’t know what it is. I take on a different persona when I ride the different boards. I know I can surf the 7’6 efficiently yet I am too frightened to try. I know I will wipe out efficiently on the 6’4 in big(ger) surf yet I don’t care. I tend to stay in the white-water on the longer board and only try little waves. The fun board has me paddling for waves I know I’ll never make, yet I try anyway.
What is this odd stage in my journey? Do I perhaps need an in-between-size board? Why is it that I have little to no confidence on a more stable board, but have all the charge (and little of the success) I need for the short board?
I do believe I am confused, but I’ll continue to take both boards out. Why not. What harm does it do to try and fail on the shortboard and be confident, while being a nervous wreck but pulling it off on a longer board?
Am I just a conundrum? Perhaps not. They do, after all, say that the board makes the surfer…but does it?
One day I will live a block away from the ocean
When the timing is right and the winds are light
One day I won’t be dragged down by such negative emotions
The traffic will be gone and my smile will be wide
One day I’ll catch every wave that comes by
I’ll be at the beach every single day
One day I won’t be constrained by time
I’ll be surfing those waves or floating in the bay
One day the sun will shine most days
The sunsets will be long
The sunrises warm
The smell of salt will wake me from my daze
One day will come
One day will come
I’ve grown up with the ocean. My grandfather took me out on his boat and we would spot penguins and seals in the water. As a result of my coastal upbringing (though later-in-life surf journey) I feel happiest with the sea. On Tuesday, I got to meet somebody who feels the exact same way. She’s even dedicated her blog to her worldly coastal travels. Enter Jessica from Turquoise Compass. I had the brilliant opportunity to meet this inspiring traveller and show her around my part of the world.
I took her to Arthur’s Seat to show her an expansive view of the sparkling turquoise water of Port Phillip Bay and took her to a few of my surf spots like Gunnamatta and Point Leo.
We almost encountered certain death at Gunnamatta. I had just been telling Jessica I had never seen a snake in the wild (which is quite surprising: a) Australian b) tromps through bush reserves a lot c) practically lives on the beach d) has grown up with horses and on farms). Jessica was astounded. She’d seen four already! So it turns out Turquoise Compass is actually a magnet for snakes because ten minutes after she told me she’d seen four already, she spotted a metre-long tiger snake right beside us. We squealed like the girls we are and quickly ran away…then got brave enough to snap numerous photos of it. They really are amazing animals, scary though they may be.
We went to Flinders, overlooking the surf on the rocks, and went to Cape Schank where the crushing Bass Strait has carved out some spectacular rock formations. “Our own little apostle” on the Mornington Peninsula.
We headed over to the Blairgowrie Back Beach to check out more gorgeous rock formations and more turquoise water. We dug our toes in the coarse sand that glittered like broken glass at Bridgewater Bay.
We finished our little “tour” off at Rye, where the water is so clear you can see the rippled sand and spot fish and dolphins.
It was a great day with Jessica; I am so glad we got the chance to meet. I can’t wait to start travelling and seeing the beauty of the world and surfing at famous breaks.