How good it feels to have surf hair again! How good it feels to watch the pink of a sunrise reflect of the wet sand and sparkle in my eyes. How good it feels to have fingers sticky from waxing … Continue reading
My time is about to get a whole lot sweeter. My days will be finally be open for surfing after next week. My dad is retiring so I won’t be working every morning with that job. I am over the … Continue reading
It’s summer here in Victoria, Australia. YAAAY. Kiddies are out of school and parents are off work, and they’re all at the beach. I haven’t surfed yet this summer. Oh, boy. You must hate me. I hate me. Quite simply, … Continue reading
I went back to South coast NSW because I loved it so much when I visited in June. I spent all my time in the water, on the water, looking at the water…yeah, you guessed it. I was in paradise. … Continue reading
I didn’t surf for pretty much three months. It’s awful, isn’t it. The more I put it off, the more anxious and depressed I got about it. I’ve been busy with university, my job, my placement, competing on my horse … Continue reading
It’s very disappointing when we don’t get the time in the water that we want (and we convince ourselves we need). I haven’t tasted a good wave since I got back from New South Wales, over a month ago…Erm…wait…Make that … Continue reading
Whenever anything isn’t quite right, I either eat a lot or go to the beach. I much prefer doing the latter. Days go by so quickly; it’s challenging to stay afloat. Coping and dealing are two ends of a management … Continue reading
Can we all just look away from the media hype of Mick’s tassle with the legrope-tangled shark for a moment to just appreciate how amazingly calm he stayed? I’m a huge shark lover, but boy howdy, I’d be a wreck. Social media told us to “hug a surfer”. Well, I’m hugging you all virtually. Stay safe out there in the water.
I have great news. I went to the doctor and finally got my ear checked out. I was worried about possibly developing surfer’s ear because my surfs are excruciating in this winter wind. Actually…if I am completely honest, it even … Continue reading
I wonder how people jump off cliffs with their surfboards to get to great breaks. You know what I mean. It’s in almost every surf film. Surfer courageously takes the drop and then joins with their surfboard on their way to their next great adventure together. I really wonder if bravery is something one gets from surfing, or if one is inherently brave to begin surfing.
Are we brave as surfers or just brave surfers?
I constantly hate myself and my surfing because I am anxious, cautious and timid, and my surfing suffers from this. I talk myself out of waves all the time and I have unfortunately been victim of too many panic attacks out in the water to admit to. But people that don’t surf look at what I do and tell me they could never do that. There’s a four-foot wave about to break in front of me. I try my hardest to duck dive and try to get through. A wall of ugly grey water surges up behind me. I’m in the wrong spot (as usual) and I am about to be chucked over the falls. I either pull back (if I can) or I just relax into the tumble of the “hold-down”. Other people wouldn’t even step into the water.
So I suppose that is all I have to think about the next time my anxiety gets the better of me. Just by entering the water, I am already brave. I got this.