Getting back in the surf

I didn’t surf for pretty much three months. It’s awful, isn’t it. The more I put it off, the more anxious and depressed I got about it. I’ve been busy with university, my job, my placement, competing on my horse and also giving love and attention to my second horse. I also broke a rib. Wow. Go me. Hopeless!

Last Friday, I finally got my hair wet again and it was GLORIOUS. The waves weren’t very big, but my confidence is completely gone from being out of the water for too long. So I just hit the whitewater. It was offshore and there weren’t too many people. I thought I’d be bombing and wiping out all over the place, but the first wave I got was easy. It was like I’d never been out the water at all. I even kicked a pretty decent bottom turn back up into the foam. I was pretty happy about that.

Now I just have to get my confidence back…a little confidence would be nice, since I never really had much to begin with. So I’m committing to surfing more. My horses are out of action thanks to an outbreak of a bad pony-cold that has the property in isolation (no riding, no grooming; my horses are 100% healthy so at least that’s good…though frustrating) for a couple of months. This has made my depression quite severe, I admit…but surfing has saved me in the past…I’m sure it will save me again.



5 thoughts on “Getting back in the surf

  1. It always does save you!

    You know, I did some wakesurfing and surfing of course and I would wake up after working all night feeling exhausted and stiff. I would always think that it had been too long since I last surfed and that I would do awful. Then once my sore old dinosaur bones hit the water and did some duck dives; I was back in action.

    I think at some point, once you got it you got it. If you are out for a year you might have some real issues but a few months can be compensated for.

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