Time out of the water and the real reason why it’s hard

It’s very disappointing when we don’t get the time in the water that we want (and we convince ourselves we need). I haven’t tasted a good wave since I got back from New South Wales, over a month ago…Erm…wait…Make that two months ago. It’s overwhelming how time slips through our fingers. While my surfboard collects dust in my study, I’m busy – no doubt – but what I feel trickling away is that valuable drive, motivation, inspiration…and worst of all, my confidence.

If you’ve followed my blog, you know that my confidence is shaky at best. It’s 4ft? Nope. Not for me. It’s 3ft? I’ll valiantly try but paddling onto that wave may or may not happen. It’s really a shame. The best thing for my confidence in the water is to surf regularly (three times a week). I’ve been so flat-out and sick that my surfing has not happened.

Yesterday I packed my surfboard in the car, hoping to surf with a friend on the Mornington Peninsula after school. Timing wasn’t right and the waves slipped away by the time I could slip away. I run my hands along the bumpy wax residue and sigh. I’ll get her wet this weekend. My heart will be in my throat and 2 foot wave will look like Mavericks or Teahupoo to me but I don’t care. I’m getting out as soon as I can…because I need to, before I lose all my nerve.


One thought on “Time out of the water and the real reason why it’s hard

  1. Practice makes perfect! I actually just returned from NSW as well and am intensely missing those perfect waves. The sets stateside are looking so unimpressive!

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