It was freezing cold this morning but I had a secret weapon…my new 4/3 wetsuit that I got for my birthday! Armed with my new wetsuit and my support crew (the boyfriend) sitting on the beach, I paddled out into 5-6 foot surf. I decided quickly that I wouldn’t be trying the unbroken waves out the back today. 5-6 foot closeout? Nope. I’ve had a 6 week break from surfing because of the equine competitive season, plus I’ve had some issues with my hip popping out and making me roll around on the floor like I’ve just been shot! So I wanted a nice easy surf to ease back into my thing.
I frolicked (cough, flailed, cough) for a while in the cross-shore rip before I cracked it and moved up the beach to the rockier section for a cleaner reform, which I got, and it was a lovely long ride that reminded me why I love surfing so much. I like to go fast and I love to swoop. Is swooping an apt word for describing that soaring feeling you get while on a wave and over the back of it? If it isn’t, I’m making it apt!
After I’d surfed for an hour or so in my new wetsuit, I stood on the beach and watched the gung-ho surfie boys out the back of those big closeouts. They weren’t all closing out now. They were tubing and spitting. Yes, it was a wise decision for me to admit I was out of my league with those ones! The gung-ho surfie boys weren’t even attempting to paddle for them. I was comfortably exhausted after catching white-water and reforms. It was rewarding enough for me to FINALLY be back on some waves!
I haven’t felt this content in a long time…