Social media has allowed me to connect with many wonderful people as I’ve learned to surf. I met a really rad surfie woman (mermaid) from the Mornington Peninsula via Instagram. Her name is Jane. We’ve been trying to organise a time to surf together for months but with university, work commitments and my competitive equestrian season full-steam ahead, it was a long time coming.
Last week, we finally got to surf together, and I was thrilled!
I’d just gotten back from the doctor (My hip has been popping out – yes, OWWWW; I’ve had a CT scan and will find out the results soon – my PT thinks it’s the way my pelvis rotates and also my hamstring but we’ll see.) and I received a text message from Jane with a seductive photo of a perfect peak at her local break, albeit small. I was supposed to be quickly exercising Montana (my horse) and cooking my boyfriend dinner. I looked at the glassy wave and decided my horse could have a day off and my boyfriend could fend for himself. I grabbed my board and drove the hour to Jane’s local break.
I was just grabbing my board out of my truck (some guys commented that I got ready the fastest they’ve ever seen) and I heard a voice sing out my name. ‘Amy?’ I called back, ‘Jane?’ We ran to each other and embraced like old friends. She had just come out of the water and told me the waves had gotten too fat with the high tide. She was on a Minimal and wasn’t catching any so what chance did I have on my little board? (Zippo.)
But we paddled out anyway. She showed me where to paddle out and how to hassle at this busy break. She managed to catch a few of the bigger waves that came through but I couldn’t get on any (I wished I still had Boardie the Minimal at that point). Jane noted that I was a really strong paddler, which is what Mal my surf coach told me too. I’m actually starting to believe it. Now if I could stop paddling so hard that I get too far in front of a wave so I get stuck at the lip, that would be great…
Jane and I had a great chat and agreed to go surfing together soon. She was so welcoming, warm and made me feel like I’d known her forever. She’s a bit of a local Queen. I can’t wait to go surfing with her again.
Jane’s local break is actually ten minutes away from my placement school so every Tuesday, pending conditions, we should be able to have a paddle out after school. I’m really looking forward to it.