I had a great feeling before I surfed on Tuesday. No anxiety whatsoever. Usually I have to chug a bit (a lot) of Bach remedy to quell my nerves but I didn’t need it the other morning. I carried my new board Blue down to the beach and all the way out to the rip. The surf was starting small in the first sets then gradually building to bigger waves. It was also onshore. I paddled out and felt relieved that I don’t get seasickness because the water was a writhing bull.
Since I don’t usually paddle out very far when it’s onshore (I could hardly ever get past the closeouts on my 7’6), wave selection was a new thing. I’d look for peaks but find myself always in the wrong position. Suddenly I’d find myself to far on the shoulder, too far back (a new problem with a shorter board), sitting in the impact zone or right in the critical zone. I went over the falls headfirst for the first time…that was thrilling. Mostly I was paddling into closeouts but at least managing to read that it was a closeout and pulling out – watching the foam try to swallow the nose of my surfboard as I pulled it back. It was a challenge to try and pick a wave.
When I did catch a wave (yes, only one), it was perfect. I dropped and felt the sensitivity beneath my feet. I did a wobbly turn and then the wave broke and I rode the white-water. This new board will be great for me to really feel what I am doing on the board – too far back and I don’t have the speed I need!
Although I only caught one wave, I was still proud that I went out the back on an onshore day – and I wasn’t scared. In fact, I even ran into the water. I can’t wait to see how far this new board can take me!