I was absolutely thrilled with the first surf I had on my new board. It had rained relentlessly with the storm front since the day before but I wasn’t going to let a bit of rain and thunder scare me off.
I got up before sunrise and made the trek down to the beach. Stupidly, I forgot to wax my board the night before…so who should have to sit there in the rain and apply the first coat of wax? Yours truly. Not my brightest move in the world but I was so eager to go surfing that I completely overlooked having to apply wax to a wet board!
The first thing I found myself uttering WOW about that morning was the way my board just punches through the walls of water. My old board was so buoyant that it would go vertically over waves – and I’d be left clutching the rails hoping to stay on or get over the wave before it broke in my face.
The shortness of the board was not an issue – since I was used to riding a 6’4 fun board anyway – but I found it a lot harder to gage where I should be for the green waves. I found myself taking off on unbroken waves either too late or too early, which is all part of learning. I only went over the falls once (I am pretty proud of that).
I came out of the surf feeling like I was ready to tackle any surf break. Now I have no choice but to paddle for bigger waves. This little board is not going to let me take off on 1 foot waves so it’s already pushing me further…and you know what? I kind of LOVE it.