My interest is piqued as I get out of my car and hear the calming buzz of the ocean. I look out at the blue water and my toes tingle with excitement. Smooth lines, but not too big that I get intimidated. I can smell the salt and see just a couple of surfers out. The sun is rising and the wind is a breeze. It’s been warm overnight and the sand is still warm to the touch.
My leg rope is too big for me. It slides around and around, but it’s a necessary annoyance. I smile as the board makes that exhilarating TWACK down on the water after paddling over a wave. I sit up; I look at the spray hitting the rocks and reef. That means a set is coming. I hesitate. Should I grab the first? It’s usually smaller, but then I have to paddle out through bigger waves. I’ll wait for the second. It comes and I think it’s huge but I go anyway. It’s probably still only waist-high.
Time slows down as I paddle, but then like movie special effects, it speeds up. I am picked up and pushed forward and I am popping up and feeling that soaring, gut launching drop. Water is so pretty from this view. Is there anything more beautiful in the world?