Onshore playground

When it's onshore and small reforms are all that are on offer - still go play.

When it’s onshore and small reforms are all that are on offer – still go play.

I know I write a lot about being nervous when it’s onshore, but I mostly get nervous when those huge sets up the back of the beach break stem up from seemingly nowhere and crash down like a building collapsing after being detonated by DNA. If it’s howling onshore, the waves don’t even stand up. They just crumble and blow into the shore as white mess. There are no surfers out…except for me. I’m out there, being buffeted by the wind…

Wind, don't be stealin' my board, please.

Wind, don’t be stealin’ my board, please.

But I’m paddling out anyway…

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Because what better way to get over the onshore freak outs than to play in the onshore rubbish?

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Thanks to my friend Brooke for these photos!

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