Like a boss

Yesterday I had a chat with a shaper about my surf ability and confidence, and we agreed on a type of surfboard that is perfect for me at this point in my surfing journey, which is very exciting. The downside is, I have to trade in both my boards to pay for it. I handed in the 6’4 funboard without a hesitation – I hardly ride it these days. But my 7’6 Minimal, my beloved blue Boardie? This one is going to be harder to say goodbye to because it has been THE surfboard. THE surfboard that has given me the stoke and the skills I need. I just have to face facts – it’s not helping my confidence. I am braver paddling out on a shorter board, see my previous post Boards make the surfer…or do they. I know this may sound mental, but my Minimal is like being attached to a bus when those bigger sets come rolling in. I feel like a sitting duck. Can’t duckdive it. Can’t turtle roll it because of my wrist. Even if I bail, the board is so buoyant, I can’t even dive under a wave without taking it on the head.

I checked with the shaper if I should get something more Minimal style (rounded tail, rounded pin) because I ENJOY riding my mal. He replied that it will only suit me if I stay in 1-2 foot waves, and I will dig rails in instead of getting a decent turn. So they’ve put me onto a 6’6 (bigger than the NSP) Like A Boss board which has been made for the intermediate surfer for small waves. I expressed concern that I may not be up to intermediate yet, but that’s just my low confidence. I CAN surf green waves. I CAN do bottom turns. I am at least on my way to intermediate.

‘Am I just going to be wiping out for the next two months?’ I asked and he replied, ‘Not at all. It’ll just take a bit to get used to because it will turn a lot faster (aka, easier),’ which is also why I have to trade in Boardie the Minimal. If I get another board, I will always be tempted to ride the Minimal. It will be easier for me to stick with the one board and get the feel of it. It will feel more performance-style (hello face planting off the rails) but it is designed for small waves (my ball park).

I feel anxious that this is a big step for me (which it is!). I just feel if I bite the bullet and get the “next board” I will have to progress because I need to learn to ride other boards. I can’t keep Boardie forever. So I’m taking control of my surfing journey – like a boss.

Like a Boss

Like a Boss


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