The summer northerly has finally decided to grace us with her presence!
Offshore conditions *dances around excitedly*!
For the first time this week, I’ve paddled out without cold dread and anxiety gnawing on my stomach lining and making me feel sick. I paddled out at dawn this morning and as soon as I wave walled up, I was on it! Yeeeehaaaaa. I had one of those fantastic sessions where every wave I went for, I got. It was an hour before my hair even got wet. (I think this is some kind of record for me.)
After a while though, hordes of surfers arrived and they didn’t really observe the rules of the break. They sat their boards in the “paddle out zone” and also gave no regard for people that were already riding the wave. Now, I don’t mind having a party wave – but I DO mind when I’m setting up for my bottom turn and suddenly there’s a beginner riding a shortboard, falling down the face of the wave in front of me. Fools do not look. Always make sure to check if somebody is already on the wave.
I was so relieved to finally have some decent conditions. After about ten seconds, my confidence was back. Now I just have to apply that confidence to the onshore close-outs! Hmm…now that’s a bit tougher.