I waxed my board extra well this morning (to avoid any more slips like last week) and then stood watching the waves. Hopes of practising the unbroken waves went tra-la-la-la-la-la’ing away. Onshore, close outs. At least 4 foot. Nope nope nope. Not for me.
Why do I struggle so much with onshore conditions and close outs? All my confidence dribbles away and I end up moping around and believing I can’t surf? I end up getting wave after wave breaking on top of me and just end up in the white water again. I guess I was hoping since it’s summer now we’d have more northerly winds, making it offshore more often. I don’t even mind paddling out in bigger surf – it it’s offshore. But 4 foot onshore is enough to knock me flying.
Nose diving was a common occurrence today. I haven’t nosedived in MONTHS. Meh. I don’t know what it is about onshore close-outs. They’re the kibosh on my confidence, for sure. Is it just an experience thing? Or am I doomed to fear the onshore close-outs for life?
I’m going out again tomorrow and I am not going to come in until I get a FEW unbroken waves. Not the little ones either. I want a good and proper wave so I can practise. Ocean, please, please give me the opportunity to succeed. I promise I’ll love you even more!