It’s been a great twelve-months of surfing, health and fitness. I’d like to thank everybody for their support and encouragement (and, of course, ADVICE)!
Thank you to Island Surfboards and Simon Chipper for giving me the basics (and the stoke). Thank you, especially Simon, for never hesitating to give me free advice when you see me out at Smiths Beach. I appreciate it more than words can say! Thank you to Mal Gregson for giving me the confidence and the skills to succeed (I’ll be definitely having more sessions with you!). Thank you to Jessica from Turquoise Compass for the advice on how to blog better and for coming out to Australia and blessing me with her friendship.
Thank you to all the lovely readers that take time to send me a message or a comment – I hope I get to go surfing with you all one day!
Thank you to my partner Hendrickus especially, for you have bore the brunt of the insidiousness that is my eating disorder, depression and anxiety. Thank you for encouraging me to go surfing as often as possible, and buying me a new truck so I can get down to my favourite surf break without breaking down.
Thank you to the surfing community for being so welcoming, answering all my questions and laughing with me out in the line-up when I (more often than not) stuff up waves you could have had for yourself.
Most of all, thank you to the ocean…I truly couldn’t have done it without YOU. Thank you for giving me a place of respite from the hell inside my mind.