Who put a banana peel on my surfboard?

I finally, finally, FINALLY got to taste my beloved salty water again this morning.

Complete with a new car that will successfully and safely get me from A to B, I tromped off down to the beach for dawn patrol.

I waxed up my board and paddled out. It was onshore, a bit chilly and overcast. Since it was onshore and I haven’t managed to surf in about three weeks, I was a bit nervous so just played in the white-water for a bit. Once I felt my nerves settle down, I went out the back and aimed to catch the odd little wave that was coming through (not those 4-5 foot dumping close outs that were making me nervous). I caught a couple but there was no power in them, so I aimed for a little bigger. A nice one came through and I went for it.

I popped up and was about to “set my rail” (if that’s the correct term – I was about to go down the line) and suddenly I was doing the splits on my board and eating the face of the wave instead of gliding on it! It’s moments like that I am so very glad that I use a camera to record all my errors (just so I have the pleasure of laughing at myself).

You can check out the footage here on my Youtube account. I was disappointed that I didn’t land that wave because it was the perfect size I like to work on. After that it was pretty much dumping close outs…

So the lesson I learned today was to wax up to the brink of drowning in wax! When you think you have enough, you probably don’t. So wax up extra well or you might blow that opportunity of a sweet ride just like I did…



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