Belonging

It can be a cold sense of community, riddled with possessiveness and competitiveness. It can be a warm sense of community, lined with good times and a laissez-faire attitude. Gangs of try-hards, scores of die hards and ribbons of kooks. The sun attracts strangers and the wind shoos wannabes away. We are in a circle. We don’t know each other but we see ourselves in every bobbing figure on a board at every surf break around the world. We are surfers.

You’ll see us on dry land, forgetting to put shoes on as we walk out our front doors. You’ll see us with strange tan lines and ruined hair. You’ll see our sunburnt faces and envy our energy, possibly even our fitness and bodies. We’ll be gone on offshore days, but you’ll know where to find us…

Where we belong…

In the sea.

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