I had to paddle extra hard. I’m going to get this wave no matter how steep it is, I thought manically to myself as my arms windmilled and stroked and my fingers dug into the water like an excavator shovel.
I leaned forward as I popped up and I heard the TWACK of my board hitting the face of the wave over the hum and the sudden explosion of the water breaking. I pointed right and turned with my shoulders, crouching to gather speed, but it was over. Close out. The entire wave was now foaming white instead of sparkling turquoise. The excitement of the moment was over in seconds, but the excitement of the memory will probably take 100 more waves to clear.
I didn’t hesitate. It was steeper than I’ve been doing. I committed to the “drop”. It may have only been a 3 foot close out but it meant a lot to me. I did it.