I was standing in the shower the other day, washing my hair after a surf.
Those words came to the front of my mind. I am suddenly ready to try for bigger waves. It’s suddenly dawning on me that I can surf. I’ve ridden green waves successfully now and survived the impact zone of bigger surf. Pushing myself to paddle out the back of each surf session has really paid off for my confidence.
My last surf, I sat out the back and thought cheekily, ‘I’m going to snake those waves from those beginners…because…well, I can’ (not a serious snake; just take off further back so we were sharing waves). I watched two guys floundering in the white-water like I used to, and I took off on a green wave and scooped a bottom turn around them. I can do this.
Confidence has snuck up on me and tapped me on the shoulder. I don’t know when it happened and why it took so long but I can now actually call myself a surfer without feeling the need to say I am a kook.
So that is the result of mentally pushing myself every surf for a week. Well, there you go. It is mind over matter after all. I feel I am ready to tackle bigger waves without feeling paralysed by fear and doubt. Bigger waves, here I come!