I arrived at my local break and chatted to a local.
‘You had a look at the beach yet?’ he asked.
‘Nope.’ I pulled on my wetsuit anyway. ‘It’ll be ‘right.’
He gave me the ‘you-are-such-a-kook’ facial expression and left me to my devices. It was howling onshore. It was a struggle to get my board down to the beach – the wind kept wanting to blast it into space. The sand whipped up and scratched my face. I slapped the board down on the water and paddled out. A few reforming white-water waves were all that were on offer but they were waves. I worked on my bottom turns, focusing on keeping my leading arm in the right position. I did an awesome turn. It felt smooth, like I was ice-skating. I retreated from the water to head home. Wrapping my leg rope up, I did a double-take.
It was completely snapped off! I have no idea how it happened or even when it happened. Would it have been possible to have such a smooth turn with only one side fin? I took it up to Island and sulked that I needed a new set of fins. They kindly gave me a single fin and even screwed it in for me (after wedging out the remains of my snapped fin). So my board is good for action again.
A couple of you may remember that I damaged the fin housing on my board earlier in the year (having a kook encounter with a rock at midtide; I know my surfing is tonnes better now because I surf over or around that rock now). It’s not even the same fin! So the housing isn’t weakened at all. All I can say is bye-bye side fin…enjoy Bass Strait…
Surf howling onshore? Check. (Means you are literally the only surfer out!) Just proves that I’m truly, madly, deeply…in love with surfing.