I like to have stiff, salty hair. I like my arms to feel like wet noodles. I like my toes to be numb and my hipbones bruised. I adore the scent of surf wax and neoprene wafting in my car. I don’t mind that my car is a sand pit.
I love that I have salty grime on my windscreen.
I love that my back aches from all those arches. I like that my eyelashes bat salt into my eyes, and my lips taste like the sea.
I can’t imagine life without flip flops, thongs, rubber slippers – whatever you call them in your part of the world.
I enjoy that buzz. I enjoy that feeling. I enjoy that memory.
It is peace.
I adore the sun. I adore the sky.
But most of all…I am in love with the stoke.