A warm welcome back

Freedom

Freedom

I had my first surf in two weeks today. The ear infection has cleared up and my chest infection is getting better too, so of course this called for packing my surfboard in the car and heading off to my home break. The glee of finding my way through the impact zone and just riding some white-water was incredible. It is like running into the arms of your long lost lover.

It was a magnificent day. It rained and hailed as I drove to the beach but as I arrived the sun came out and the beach turned it on seemingly just for me. As I left…it rained. I had this gorgeous little window of the day with nice waves and blue skies. The water has even warmed up. Today I managed to surf with no rashie under my wetsuit and I did not need booties. That’s what I call a warm welcome back.

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2 thoughts on “A warm welcome back

  1. Just from the pics it looks like you are charging down the line pretty well!

    I have always noticed that I have a very noticeable lack of photos of myself surfing. My friends never want to leave the water to take pics. Oh well!

    • Get yourself a camera to attach to your board. Ideally, it would be better to have somebody else take photos to get a better idea of what I need to work on but I can’t even convince anyone to surf with me let alone take photos!

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