I had my first surf in two weeks today. The ear infection has cleared up and my chest infection is getting better too, so of course this called for packing my surfboard in the car and heading off to my home break. The glee of finding my way through the impact zone and just riding some white-water was incredible. It is like running into the arms of your long lost lover.
It was a magnificent day. It rained and hailed as I drove to the beach but as I arrived the sun came out and the beach turned it on seemingly just for me. As I left…it rained. I had this gorgeous little window of the day with nice waves and blue skies. The water has even warmed up. Today I managed to surf with no rashie under my wetsuit and I did not need booties. That’s what I call a warm welcome back.