It gets so cold that your veins feel as though your freezing. You’re the only one out in the water so you have endless waves to yourself.
Your breath is short. It’s so cold that all your energy is used to keep warm. You don’t even realise you’re pulling all sorts of ugly faces just to keep your teeth from chattering. The wind blows you off your board, off your wave, off your feet.
You’ve got a dull ache on your forehead which you welcome because you can’t feel the rest of your face.
You walk slowly back to your car, feeling as though you’ve just run a marathon. Your feet are numb and your fingers tingle. The squall tries to snatch your board but you clutch it like its your child.
Your body is here in this climate, but your mind is in summer. Ahh. Summer. You can’t wait. You just can’t. Wait.