Home break

I love my home break. It makes me all warm and fuzzy inside! I know that I’m going to get absolutely pounded by that beach break but I love it anyway because it is challenging, yes, but it’s also a hell of a ride when you get it right.

The people are so friendly. I had a couple stand on the beach last night to just watch me frolic like an uncoordinated dolphin. They even shared my elation as I took off on a green wave and even managed a bottom turn. ‘Yessss!’ I cried. They cheered and clapped. It was minor embarrassing but I felt supported anyway.

After that, I rode a wave right into shore, right into the paws of an overly-excited little Schnauzer. He ran into the water to greet me in his language and covered me with kisses as I jumped off the board. He was THAT happy for me.

As the sun set, I shared my spot with a friendly man who was the exact same skill level as I. It was great to be able to share waves with a guy, knowing that one of us could bomb out…or both of us. It was a lot of fun.

The water was also beautifully clear. I could see a forlorn scuba mask resting upon a rock beneath us. I love it when it’s that glassy. You look down and you can see your shadow reflecting back at you from the sandy bottom.

I’m ecstatic that my surfing is progressing with my Surf 3x a Week goal I have over my mid-semester break. I love feeling the control I have riding down the line (previously it was pure accidental wobbling). Sure, I’m going for waves (a lot of the time) that are way past my skill level and bombing out hilariously (hold-downs are less scary when you learn to relax) but I’m learning. I’m learning which waves to pick, and which waves I have to paddle like crazy to beat past the line-up in either direction. You know those monster bombs that you see coming and you think ‘Uh-Oh’ and you paddle like a lunatic to either the beach (so you can catch it once it’s already broken) or risking your neck by trying to beat it (It’s like paddling up a brick wall!)? It’s all good. I don’t quit until I’ve got salt burn and the sun’s disappeared off the horizon. It’s bliss!

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4 thoughts on “Home break

  1. Definitely sounds like bliss. I feel a lot the same as when you describe trying to make it or get it after its broken, its hilarious. Your lucky you’ve got a spot that people are so nice. Many other spots bring a bad attitude. I hope to hit up Oz someday!

    • I am lucky to have such a peaceful community at my spot. We’re all in it for the love of surfing and don’t see the point of aggression. The worst I’ve encountered in a line-up is a cold shoulder and a stink-eye (from spoiled little groms). It’s a great laidback place. Let me know if you do ever come out to Oz. I’ll be happy to go surfing with you.

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