Surfing at Bondi Beach: one word = COLD.
I never imagined that a New South Wales beach would be colder than a Victorian beach (think Manly compared with Bells Beach).
It’s a very different wave to what I’m used to. The water is like a deep channel so there’s no where for a rush of white water to go except in a shore break, so I had no choice but to paddle out to the green waves. I hired a wetsuit and a 7’0 foam board from Let’s Go Surfing, a surf school and hire company on the northern edge of the beach.
I only managed to successfully catch two waves. Most of the other times I missed the waves or I was so surprised by the expulsion of power from the edge of the lip and wiped out outstandingly. I did some accidental “kneeboarding” on one particular wave; it was bigger than I usually surf but I went for it anyway. I took the drop and “sort of” popped up but the glide down the face was a little woopsy-daisy wobbly so I never actually got to my feet – just stuck to my knees with my arms up enjoying the ride, before being blown off the board like a firehose had blasted me in the back or the ocean had given me a rough shove (funny about that).
I met two lovely women while out surfing. It was so nice to surf and wait in the line-up with other women and have a chat. I don’t get that back home. The women I do see are usually such good surfers they don’t talk to anybody or they’re complete beginners over in the white water. There’s a reason why home is nicknamed Bloke’s Island in the surf world.
I had a great time out in the water except for being so cold. I was shivering like a frightened puppy. (I’d never shivered while wearing a wetsuit – never!)
At least I caught two waves, right? (I usually catch at least twenty…)
I’m just proud that I actually paddled out. I envisaged myself getting all the way to Sydney and saying NUP NOT FOR ME but I stuck with my goals and continued along my way to being a true surfer.