Surfing at Bondi Beach

Surfing at Bondi Beach: one word = COLD.

I never imagined that a New South Wales beach would be colder than a Victorian beach (think Manly compared with Bells Beach).

It’s a very different wave to what I’m used to. The water is like a deep channel so there’s no where for a rush of white water to go except in a shore break, so I had no choice but to paddle out to the green waves. I hired a wetsuit and a 7’0 foam board from Let’s Go Surfing, a surf school and hire company on the northern edge of the beach.

I only managed to successfully catch two waves. Most of the other times I missed the waves or I was so surprised by the expulsion of power from the edge of the lip and wiped out outstandingly. I did some accidental “kneeboarding” on one particular wave; it was bigger than I usually surf but I went for it anyway. I took the drop and “sort of” popped up but the glide down the face was a little woopsy-daisy wobbly so I never actually got to my feet – just stuck to my knees with my arms up enjoying the ride, before being blown off the board like a firehose had blasted me in the back or the ocean had given me a rough shove (funny about that).

I met two lovely women while out surfing. It was so nice to surf and wait in the line-up with other women and have a chat. I don’t get that back home. The women I do see are usually such good surfers they don’t talk to anybody or they’re complete beginners over in the white water. There’s a reason why home is nicknamed Bloke’s Island in the surf world.

I had a great time out in the water except for being so cold. I was shivering like a frightened puppy. (I’d never shivered while wearing a wetsuit – never!)

 At least I caught two waves, right? (I usually catch at least twenty…)

I’m just proud that I actually paddled out. I envisaged myself getting all the way to Sydney and saying NUP NOT FOR ME but I stuck with my goals and continued along my way to being a true surfer.

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5 thoughts on “Surfing at Bondi Beach

  1. Hi! So glad you had a good time – it was really interesting to hear your observations (I am so used to Bondi, but I don’t get to surf elsewhere much). If you were out today, you did WELL – the surf is massive!

    • It’s so great to hear from a local of Bondi! I wish we could’ve connected while I was there. You could’ve provided me with some pointers.
      If I was more confident and more skilled, I’m sure I would’ve been ripping it up instead of only catching two! Haha. I was there yesterday. I LOVED it though. I went over to Tamarama and Bronte afterwards and saw a humpback whale and a HUGE pod of dolphins passing through and having a frolick in the waves. I will definitely be returning!

  2. So intersting to see the point of view of someone who isn’t used to surfing in Bondi! Personally, and as a beginner, I prefer surfing there in winter, it’s much less crowded and I can catch wayyy more waves. Check out Maroubra if you’re still in the area! x

    • I was only there for one day for a Marine Conservational Society event at Bronte. I loved surfing there and I hope to come back soon. I will check out Maroubra when I return to New South Wales in the not so distant future, hopefully with somebody so they can film my hilarious wipe-outs!
      It’s always a challenge adjusting to a new break on an unfamiliar board when you’re just learning. It’s all part of my journey so it’s very exciting.

  3. Pingback: Daily Haiku 2014.06.26 – | Rob's Surf Report

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