Point Break on a Friday afternoon

I surfed a different break last night. (Hold for applause.) Not only was it new, it was also…*drum roll* a rocky break!

I’ve been sticking to my favourite little beach breaks like a comfort blanket. I’m a “local” there so I don’t have to worry about dudes hassling me for being in “their” spot (eye roll). But now that university is out for winter break, I am getting a whole lot more surfing in so now is the time to really progress.

I took my Mini-Mal because the break I was headed to does not get a huge swell unless there’s a storm. But I got there and there were a few surfers out, plus a stand-up paddle boarder as well as a surf skier so I thought excellent. I could get some good ones here.

I paddled out a little nervously but the great thing about point breaks is that you don’t get pummelled on the head by breaking waves every two seconds. It was nice.

I saw some water roll upwards; I turned for it, paddled and ta-daaaaa. First wave I got was a beauty!

Alas, the swell died straight after that. I paddled across, I paddled out, I paddled in…felt like I was paddling on the spot. Nada.

Then a surfer girl paddled out. She started chatting familiarly with the stand-up paddle boarder so I sat on my board and thought, right. I’ll sit here and watch what she does. I must be doing something wrong. But did she catch a single wave? No. Turns out that it wasn’t just me and I didn’t have to feel like a complete kook because I wasn’t catching anything. I gave it about forty attempts (or until I felt like I just couldn’t paddle anymore) and two hours before I gave it up.

I wasn’t even disappointed that I only got one wave. We had a double-rainbow over us the entire time. It made it brilliant and surreal to be out in clear water with a double-rainbow. I don’t know about you, but you don’t really see a rainbow until you’ve seen it from the water.


I am still proud of myself for going to a different sort of break, a break away from my usual one and it was also rocky – which I do have some qualms about.

Taking the drop on that first (and only) wave was a little terrifying because all I could see beneath me was rock. There was no sandy bottom whatsoever, but I just concentrated on my surfing and I was fine. I think it’s great that I don’t “fall off” my board anymore so that I can ride those sort of breaks without worrying about landing on rocks. I ride the wave then get back down into the board.

By George, I think I’m getting it.



Surf’s (not) up.


6 thoughts on “Point Break on a Friday afternoon

  1. Well done that’s fantastic! The thought of point breaks scare me so I’m going to have to be a lot more confident with beach breaks before I contemplate them. Beautiful picture of the rainbow, love it! 🙂

    • The idea of the long rides of point breaks are very alluding. Take a look around at some beginner friendly point breaks around you. The ride I had on that first (only) wave was AMAZING. That’s where the money shot is, I think. You can really work on SURFING, not just riding the wave if that makes sense. A couple of wobbly turns had me hooked! Beach breaks are great for that sandy bottom, but the waves are a bit dumpier (I find anyway). We’ll get there x.

  2. Pretty cool day! And…really hug the break line on days like that. When the waves come in, watch where they break and sit a few strokes past that. If you take off at an angle you will not have to worry about minor things such as running aground on the bricks.

    • I watched the waves, so I paddled to the break line. Then it would change, so I would paddle there. Then it would change again. Very fickle! My partner was watching from the beach and he said the same thing. I just needed some bigger swell because the waves just weren’t powerful enough. It’s in a bay, so it’s very protected. Made for a mild surf, though so it was nice :).

      • We have a place like that here. It is a pier but the swells are blocked out by our cape. So it can be 8 feet south of the pier and 3 feet at the pier. The place to go when things get out of control.

        The waves are a lot weaker too. Harder to catch because they lack the push.

        Well, you were out and at a different spot so it is all good. More steps on your journey!

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