I surfed a different break last night. (Hold for applause.) Not only was it new, it was also…*drum roll* a rocky break!
I’ve been sticking to my favourite little beach breaks like a comfort blanket. I’m a “local” there so I don’t have to worry about dudes hassling me for being in “their” spot (eye roll). But now that university is out for winter break, I am getting a whole lot more surfing in so now is the time to really progress.
I took my Mini-Mal because the break I was headed to does not get a huge swell unless there’s a storm. But I got there and there were a few surfers out, plus a stand-up paddle boarder as well as a surf skier so I thought excellent. I could get some good ones here.
I paddled out a little nervously but the great thing about point breaks is that you don’t get pummelled on the head by breaking waves every two seconds. It was nice.
I saw some water roll upwards; I turned for it, paddled and ta-daaaaa. First wave I got was a beauty!
Alas, the swell died straight after that. I paddled across, I paddled out, I paddled in…felt like I was paddling on the spot. Nada.
Then a surfer girl paddled out. She started chatting familiarly with the stand-up paddle boarder so I sat on my board and thought, right. I’ll sit here and watch what she does. I must be doing something wrong. But did she catch a single wave? No. Turns out that it wasn’t just me and I didn’t have to feel like a complete kook because I wasn’t catching anything. I gave it about forty attempts (or until I felt like I just couldn’t paddle anymore) and two hours before I gave it up.
I wasn’t even disappointed that I only got one wave. We had a double-rainbow over us the entire time. It made it brilliant and surreal to be out in clear water with a double-rainbow. I don’t know about you, but you don’t really see a rainbow until you’ve seen it from the water.
I am still proud of myself for going to a different sort of break, a break away from my usual one and it was also rocky – which I do have some qualms about.
Taking the drop on that first (and only) wave was a little terrifying because all I could see beneath me was rock. There was no sandy bottom whatsoever, but I just concentrated on my surfing and I was fine. I think it’s great that I don’t “fall off” my board anymore so that I can ride those sort of breaks without worrying about landing on rocks. I ride the wave then get back down into the board.
By George, I think I’m getting it.
Surf’s (not) up.