How hard is it to kiss the ocean every day?

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Just another week and I should be able to set my board on the water and paddle out. To cope with my current lack of surfability, I’ve haunted the beaches anyway, doing surf checks and feeling my skin tingle with delight when I see long lefthanders peeling off the point or welcoming waves slapping onto the sand.

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To feel that anticipation and that static electricity a surfer feels before jogging down the beach to the break is addictive. Today I could see it on about fifty different faces: gotta get out, gotta get out, gotta get out. Wetsuits were dragged on and boards were whipped by a lump of wax. Gotta get out. There was a storm coming. A rainbow graced the break and shone on a SUP rider charging the waves better than any I’ve ever seen, reminding me yet again that I am yet to try SUP. A family of five arrives. Little girl in a wetsuit with her baby belly poking outwards. Blonde hair in pigtails. Dad the leader – first in and first to catch a wave, also the first to crash in a flurry of white water and soaring longboard.

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I stand on the shore. Waiting. Healing. Stoked. I’m there on that point break. You just can’t see me. I’m pushing my weight onto my leading foot and looking down the line, setting up for a turn (and inevitable fail). I’m out there. Riding the storm surf. It won’t be long until I kiss the ocean again.

 

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4 thoughts on “How hard is it to kiss the ocean every day?

  1. I must have missed something. When did you get hurt? Well, I hope you can paddle out at Bronte.

    That looks like the beaches you should be surfing! Fun waves and not heavy at all!

    • I broke my toe on Anzac Day. Not bad. Getting better. I can walk without limping so much now so I think I’ll be surfing again this week.
      They DO look perfect don’t they?! I was spewing! The wave broke for AGES. It’s just a little surf spot (one wave) and it’s right in the metropolis of suburbia so it gets super crowded on the weekends. I think I’ll take my board down on Friday after work and give it a paddle. 🙂

      • My break is the hub of humanity in these parts too. Well, I surf across the inlet from the star attraction so for me it is a lot of surfing during the week and I tend to go early or skip the weekends. I also surf in the nasty section. Just a few of us sit super deep so that also makes life bearable.

        I think your idea for Friday sounds like a pretty solid idea. A good paddle out will keep the board happy. It won’t be your fault if the board turns and catches a few waves as well.

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