As some of you may know, I’ve had a run-in with rocks in the past, so now I’m cautious of rocky/reef breaks. I wasn’t injured in my graceful dismount but my board was. I’m hesitant to enter rocky water again. Sure, I can steer my board a lot better than I could when I dinged poor Board, but I still feel like a hopeless case when it comes to surfing.
The wave at the break in the photo does not look intimidating and it looks like a good practising spot for those green waves – being that it peels and doesn’t close-out in a big steep DUMP YOU fashion like the waves I usually practise on. But the rocks! Rocks and I are not really good friends…but, as a man I met last week told me: ‘Nah, the rocks are all right; you just bounce on ’em a bit.’
Rocks and I need to become friends if I am going to progress as a surfer. I need to get over my fear of localism too. Trying out different breaks will help my surfing, and there are only a handful of sandy beaches around. I think it’s time to toughen up and try some rocky point breaks instead of dumpy beach breaks. I suppose I can always fix my board if I ding it; I have “the savvy” now.
Time to toughen up sweet cheeks. Right. Rocky point break is my next stop…After my toe heals because I kind of, sort of, kind of…hmm. How to put this without sounding like an utter kook? Well. What the heck. I am a kook so here goes: Toe met a sticky kooky-landing yesterday and is now, rather, um…mongoloid. Ah well. Kooks will never learn not to break things like little phalanges and surfboards.