To tackle the rocks or not?


As some of you may know, I’ve had a run-in with rocks in the past, so now I’m cautious of rocky/reef breaks. I wasn’t injured in my graceful dismount but my board was. I’m hesitant to enter rocky water again. Sure, I can steer my board a lot better than I could when I dinged poor Board, but I still feel like a hopeless case when it comes to surfing.

The wave at the break in the photo does not look intimidating and it looks like a good practising spot for those green waves – being that it peels and doesn’t close-out in a big steep DUMP YOU fashion like the waves I usually practise on. But the rocks! Rocks and I are not really good friends…but, as a man I met last week told me: ‘Nah, the rocks are all right; you just bounce on ’em a bit.’

Rocks and I need to become friends if I am going to progress as a surfer. I need to get over my fear of localism too. Trying out different breaks will help my surfing, and there are only a handful of sandy beaches around. I think it’s time to toughen up and try some rocky point breaks instead of dumpy beach breaks. I suppose I can always fix my board if I ding it; I have “the savvy” now.

 Time to toughen up sweet cheeks. Right. Rocky point break is my next stop…After my toe heals because I kind of, sort of, kind of…hmm. How to put this without sounding like an utter kook? Well. What the heck. I am a kook so here goes: Toe met a sticky kooky-landing yesterday and is now, rather, um…mongoloid. Ah well. Kooks will never learn not to break things like little phalanges and surfboards.


14 thoughts on “To tackle the rocks or not?

  1. Just paddle out wide of the point and you will be alright. Rocks are not that bad at a place that breaks in a uniform manner. Once you ride for a bit then kick out and you will avoid the shallow inside section as well.


  2. Yes; dealing with rocks is part of surfing. Don’t forget that rocks are different in different parts of the surfing world, and you often need to apply or modify your techniques as you grow as a surfer. In one area I’ve surfed the “rocks” are clayish type sandstone, and as you walk out the clay sticks to your feet and makes them slippery, so then you need to deal with slick soles after you make it outside. This is one reason why JJ Florence had more wax near the nose at Margrets River, in between waves he can rub his feet on that patch of wax to get them sticky or at least not slippery. Nice blog, I intend to read thru it. Aloha

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