Get amongst it!

Get amongst it!

My favourite time to surf this spot is early in the morning. The sun peeks over the headland and the water seems almost violet in colour. There’s a never ending string of sets that come in, line after line. I see this view in the morning and I know I’m about to have a great day.

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9 thoughts on “Get amongst it!

    • The right is a CRAZY bomb called Papa’s. I don’t see too many surfers giving it a go. I’ve only seen one tackle it so far. It’s way out of my ability-zone haha.
      Nice pick of the sharky vibe! It’s close to Seal Rocks so there are probably Great Whites swimming around looking for some breakfast! I’ve heard that Express Point (best wave on the island, around to the left of this headland) is the sharkiest place on the entire island. No one’s been eaten so I feel pretty safe :).

      • I feel bad for the first person to get a nip! Ha ha!

        Well, I have to salute you. The south coast seems to get bombed by swells and learning in surf like that seems to not be to user friendly. Sadly, I was forced to learn in Hawaii and it was probably far easier. Well, the rocks and reef were a bit intimidating but you get over it.

        If you live on an island, there is probably some cove or corner that cuts down the swell is 4 feet smaller than everywhere else. You just have to find it!

      • We have very rocky and reefy swells here too. There are a few covey beginner spots – this place is one of them. There’s also a rocky bay area about ten minutes from here I want to give a surf. I don’t like testing new surf spots when I’m by myself though so I have to convince the boyfriend into sitting on the beach to watch. The rocky bay area has a small swell, is a point break and is really good for longboarding so I think it’ll really help me regarding the green waves. Where I surf gets a bit steep and close-out-y so I spend a lot of time paddling out, missing waves, nosediving and going over the falls. I’m on the lookout for the nice gentle peeling righthander of my learner-kook dreams so I can perfect the technique.

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