Walking along the beach, I’d often trip on rocks and seaweed because I was too busy staring into the surf. I averted my eyes from a surfer passing me. They filled me with such deep shame. I wanted to surf but I felt too undeserving. I could have bought myself a surfboard and started at any time, but my lack of body confidence and just general anxiety held me back.
Eventually the need to surf became too great and I couldn’t let negativity hold me back anymore. I got my surfboard in December. I’ve been attempting to charge ever since. Failing most of the time, but having fun anyway is my surfing style. I’m not going too badly. I’m out in the water and paddling for those swells, whereas old me used to stay on the sand and wish I could be surfing.
I’m doin’ all right.
Yeah…I reckon I’ll be fine.