Surfing life

Wouldn’t it be nice to sit around a bonfire on the beach, wearing ponchos and sipping on acai tea while discussing the art of surfing?

Wouldn’t it be nice to wake up in the morning, roll over and see waves standing up and crashing down?

Wouldn’t it be nice to be in walking distance to a decent surf break? Grab your board and meander down.

Trying to drink your coffee quickly so you can get into the good stuff but you keep burning your throat? It would be worth it.

Not putting enough wax on your board because you’re so pumped to get into the water? I’ve done it. It’s also worth it.

Your heart beats so fast it feels like it’s going to evacuate your chest. And that’s just as you’re jogging to the beach with your board. Wait ’til you get in the water and paddle out. It’s like being born again.

Wouldn’t it be nice to do that every day?

Happy Easter everyone x.

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