Ocean, meet introvert. Introvert, meet Ocean.

I got to one of my favourite surf spots this morning and it was eerily abandoned. Not a soul in sight. Sure, it was 7am but it’s the school holidays. You usually can’t even get a parking spot on the school holidays! Was something wrong with the waves? I peered out of my windscreen (dirt road bashing SUV windscreen: spattered with dust, mud, smears of dirty water and dead bugs) and saw white lines. Close-outs. Not so bad for a longboard rider such as myself, so out I went.

I thought I’d be nervous being the lone surfer in the water, however I felt at peace. It was exactly what I needed. Time away from people. The water nipped at my feet but once I caught that first wave I couldn’t feel the chill anymore. It had finally stopped raining and the howling wind had lessened to a sob.

Then the perfect ride.

Arch back, pop up. Feel the drop. The glide. The silence and the slowing-down of time. Water. Water. Water. Just me and the water. Soaring along the face of a wave.

I still can’t stop smiling.

Some surfers came by later at about 9.30. I called it quits. Nomad she wolf padding up the cliff, carrying her longboard, hair dripping down her neck. Content. The perfect start to my day.

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3 thoughts on “Ocean, meet introvert. Introvert, meet Ocean.

  1. I loved reading your experience of this surf session. My last surf session, I didnt stop smiling for hours or days afterwards. Well done for surfing alone…something i havent managed to do yet but its on my radar 🙂

    • It certainly left me grinning like a giddy little girl! Surfing alone is something I wouldn’t advise if you’re not a strong swimmer nor overly confident. The ocean can bite us in the backside very efficiently and officiously!

  2. Super time. Lone time. When you can enjoy the best that nature provides when it’s just you and God and beauty it’s as good as life can get. Thanks for sharing.

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