I got to one of my favourite surf spots this morning and it was eerily abandoned. Not a soul in sight. Sure, it was 7am but it’s the school holidays. You usually can’t even get a parking spot on the school holidays! Was something wrong with the waves? I peered out of my windscreen (dirt road bashing SUV windscreen: spattered with dust, mud, smears of dirty water and dead bugs) and saw white lines. Close-outs. Not so bad for a longboard rider such as myself, so out I went.
I thought I’d be nervous being the lone surfer in the water, however I felt at peace. It was exactly what I needed. Time away from people. The water nipped at my feet but once I caught that first wave I couldn’t feel the chill anymore. It had finally stopped raining and the howling wind had lessened to a sob.
Then the perfect ride.
Arch back, pop up. Feel the drop. The glide. The silence and the slowing-down of time. Water. Water. Water. Just me and the water. Soaring along the face of a wave.
I still can’t stop smiling.
Some surfers came by later at about 9.30. I called it quits. Nomad she wolf padding up the cliff, carrying her longboard, hair dripping down her neck. Content. The perfect start to my day.