I love having a long(ish)-board that I can ride on little waves. Little waves do wonders for your confidence. I think a lot of surfers forget how fun just messing around in the white-water can be. Because I am in the awkward transitional stage of abilities, I can appreciate both unbroken and broken waves and the varied rides they provide.
I met a woman the other week during a sunset surf that rode a Mal. Similar skill level but a bit more mellow. I connected with her immediately. I asked, ‘Have you tried any unbroken waves yet?’
Her reply was, ‘Once. I had a bad experience so I just stick to little waves. It’s more fun.’
I love her attitude. I also love that she’s honest. Not many surfers will tell you ‘I’m s***-scared of those waves’, but I bet a lot of them do have the occasional ‘Oh dear God mother Mary’ moment. I guess that’s what surf lingo translates into when we say “they charge”: they-go-headfirst-into-that-wave-even-though-they’re-scared-s***less.
Having a mellow surf just in white-water is what I’ve taken to doing on the low-tide when the unbroken sets get very steep and “dumpy” – that doesn’t help my mission of NOT nose-diving. There’s no surf rage in the white-water either. It’s a great place to be. I hope I never forget what it’s like to be that stoked surfer in the white-water.