Teeny weeny waves are still fun

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I love having a long(ish)-board that I can ride on little waves. Little waves do wonders for your confidence. I think a lot of surfers forget how fun just messing around in the white-water can be. Because I am in the awkward transitional stage of abilities, I can appreciate both unbroken and broken waves and the varied rides they provide.

I met a woman the other week during a sunset surf that rode a Mal. Similar skill level but a bit more mellow. I connected with her immediately. I asked, ‘Have you tried any unbroken waves yet?’

Her reply was, ‘Once. I had a bad experience so I just stick to little waves. It’s more fun.’

I love her attitude. I also love that she’s honest. Not many surfers will tell you ‘I’m s***-scared of those waves’, but I bet a lot of them do have the occasional ‘Oh dear God mother Mary’ moment. I guess that’s what surf lingo translates into when we say “they charge”: they-go-headfirst-into-that-wave-even-though-they’re-scared-s***less.

Having a mellow surf just in white-water is what I’ve taken to doing on the low-tide when the unbroken sets get very steep and “dumpy” – that doesn’t help my mission of NOT nose-diving. There’s no surf rage in the white-water either. It’s a great place to be. I hope I never forget what it’s like to be that stoked surfer in the white-water.

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2 thoughts on “Teeny weeny waves are still fun

  1. I also rode an unbroken wave once and it was amazing…but at the same time it scared the hell out of me! Until I can get my confidence levels up, I will sticking to fun in the white water ! 🙂

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