The surf was thumping last night. And by thumping, I mean I got absolutely well and truly thumped!
I admit that I had to stomp out of the waves and sit on my board and wipe away some tears. I’d been hit in the head with my board, got pulled under and dragged back by gargantuan lumps of seaweed that thought my leg rope and my ankles were the best things to clutch onto, got annihilated by the rip currents, nose dived, landed in awkward positions on the shallow sand banks and even felt my hamstring go TWANG just trying to get out into the line-up (try catching waves with an unrelenting muscle – it makes for comical attempts to stand up). So at a certain point, I had to get out. I had to remove myself from the water.
Removing myself was probably the best thing I could have done. I got my breath back, could massage my muscle until I could move my leg more freely and watch other surfers for a while. It was low-tide. The swell was at about 3-5 ft., so those waves were steep as hell and the guys out the back attempting to do cutbacks were just being swallowed or dumped…head first. So those waves weren’t right for me. I just wanted to have fun; enjoy a sunset surf at my favourite place in the world.
So I forgot my first attempts. I went back into the water and caught some smaller unbroken waves and some bigger broken waves. I just needed a moment to appreciate my situation and calm my nerves; accept that I’m not a good surfer…yet. The only thing that will help me become a good surfer is practice, and I can’t practice if I get down in the dumps about being dumped.
I ended up having a really great time. Sometimes it helps to remove yourself and get some perspective on things if you’re feeling overwhelmed or frustrated. Heck look at me. I had to leave the water and sniffle like a baby before I could go back in on reset and still feel the stoke. The stoke is all that really matters.