Why does it have to be so challenging?


But more so, making that transition from whitewater to unbroken waves. You thought I was going to get all pessimistic on you there didn’t you.

So here’s where I am with my kook skill level:

On 7’6″ Minimal
*paddle paddle paddle…I’m not getting anywhere. Hey cool. The wave’s lifting me up. Paddle paddle paddle paddle. Grunt grunt grunt. The nose is digging in…Hello face plant into the water.*

On 6’4″ Fish
*paddle paddle whooo I’ve actually got some speed on this thing. Holy Jesus Hell Dogs Jiminy Cricket I’m at the top of the wave. What do I do? Can’t get up. Can’t back out. Sugar that’s a long way down the face. Insert some more nervous babbling. Over the falls I go.*

On one board I have the problem of not having enough paddle speed, causing the nose to dig in or just seeing lots of unbroken waves rolling past me (I’d prefer the nose dive to missing wave after wave to be honest); on another board I have the paddle speed but I’m too far back on the board and getting stuck right on the lip with nothing to do except wait for a brutal rough and tumble down the face of the wave. Trying to find the correct placement on the shorter board was a steep (and I mean steep; low-tide unbroken waves with barrels was quite the place to try out a shorter board I tell you what) learning curve but the paddling is so laborious on my Mal that I miss more waves than I catch and I get frustrated.

I’m hoping that other surfers have faced this unbroken-wave-challenge-o-rama also and I’m not just hopeless!

I watch video after video of pro surfers in their element and try to pick-up tips but then I’m out there staring down the face of what looks like a 20 foot dragon (when in reality is more in the 3-7 foot range), it’s incredibly hard to get it right. Practice makes perfect right? Then I’ll be the best at going over the falls. Hooray, go me.


2 thoughts on “Why does it have to be so challenging?

  1. Yep… Just like life! Life takes a lot of practice but better to get out there and fall off the face then let another wave roll by… Awesome job at working it! Both at surf and life! Have a great day….

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