Sharing the stoke

I packed away my boyfriend’s wetsuit as well as mine when we embarked on our trip. Wednesday morning I said to him, ‘We’ll go to a really good beginner beach so you can have a go.’

He had no excuses. The wetsuit was in the car and we were there at the beach within five minutes.

I handed over my board and let him carry it into the water. ‘Are you nervous?’ I asked.

‘A little bit,’ he admitted with his eyes on the horizon.

‘Just have a go with the board. Don’t worry about standing up or anything,’ I said, planning to take him out to the sand and teach him to stand up once he got the feeling of the rush the wave gives you when it shoots you forward. Isn’t that where all of us get addicted as beginners before we challenge ourselves to the real fun of riding unbroken waves?

‘Catch this one. Turn the board around. Hop on.’ He followed my instructions begrudgingly. He caught the wave. And do you know what? He bloody stood up on the thing first shot!

He made his way back out to me in the breaking waves and puffed, ‘That is so fun!’ He kept trying and got better and better, standing for longer periods. Was I surprised that he could stand up on his first go? Not really. He windsurfed for many years. You know, that sport that was popular in the ’90s when we were all watching Tom Carroll rip it up at Pipeline?

He has great balance. I’m proud that he felt the stoke.

The best thing I’ve ever heard him say to me, apart from I love you, is: I want to go surfing again.

He’s already moping that he won’t be able to come with me for my next session. So now I’ve got some competition in the household! He’s going to progress a lot faster than I am and I actually appreciate the rivalry because it will push me to challenge myself more.

I’ve converted an old windsurfer to surfing. He’s willing to front some money for my next board. His reasoning? Hurry up and get a shortboard so I can have yours. No worries, darling. Challenge accepted. Now to keep practising so I’m ready to step down to maybe a 6’8 or 6’6, possibly even a 6’4 because I’m only 5’2 tall and don’t weigh much. Bring it on baby!


His second-day of surfing and look at him go.


11 thoughts on “Sharing the stoke

      • I’ve been to Stradbroke. It’s beautiful! See it from a seaplane; gorgeous! Half of my family are Queenslanders – spread between Ipswich (a suburb of Brisbane) to Maroochydore (further north) and Maloolaba (I don’t even know if I’m spelling those towns correctly!). I’m down south in Melbourne. If you love fashion, coffee, strange weather (today for example: sunny and hot so humid you’re drowning in sweat to pouring with rain needing a jacket…then back to sunny…then some rain…et cetera) and needing a wetsuit for those craaaaaazy southern coast waves even in summer – come on down to Melbourne! I’d be happy to take you surfing!

      • Wow, you’ve been close to amazing beaches your whole life. I am heading to Noosa after Brisbane and I am so excited!
        Well actually I am coming to Melbourne at some point (end of March, April ish) so that would be great to meet up! I will let you know when it is closer to the time. Send me an e-mail to so that I have your contact a bit more accessible! 🙂

  1. Oh Yeah!!! That’s the way to keep the guy chasing you! The dude is looking good… Can’t let us guys get too comfortable…

    • I was so happy he enjoyed it. I’ve been bugging him to try surfing for a long time but he’s always said he had no interest in it (those snobby windsurfers haha). He’s a wonderful guy. I am a very hard little firecracker to keep up with – especially since he is older! Haha! He tried learning to ride horses too but my horse is a slight moron (he can be very, very silly) so it turned him off that. So here’s hoping we can be a surfie-couple!

      • Important to have things like this to enjoy together. Guys can be slow to change (we often like our ruts we dig for ourselves) but once we get started on something.. Watch out.. He will be tearing it up out there while sending you off to work! Ha! So glad that you are able to start sharing in this fun with the man.. Best to you both! Stay Safe but.. Be Wild n Reckless! 🙂

      • I’ve invited him twice this week but he’s too exhausted. He’s very hardworking. He’ll be a weekend surfer…and probably still better than I! We will definitely stay safe…and MOST DEFINITELY wild and reckless!

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