Rocky landing

Do you know what went through my head as I waxed my board yesterday? Man it would hurt to land on a rock.

Now, you can call this divine intervention or ESP or something. I just call it inevitable.

We have a rocky beach. We have a beginner surfer. Instant chemistry.

The annoying part was I had only just moved down the beach to avoid two big rocks! I was surfing along, really revelling in the controlled ride I was having and how easy it was to balance. I looked down, just ahead of me. Oh crimeny that’s a rock. Before I knew it, in dug my fin, veered off my surfboard and tumbling I did go!

Yes, my fin is damaged. I’ll post more updates when I have more time.

Oh by the way, Happy Australia Day!

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9 thoughts on “Rocky landing

  1. Cheers to you for getting out there and doing it… I was mentally riding along with you when you hit the rock, and survived to write about it! Hope the board is getting back into surf shape!

    • Thank you.
      My board is currently “in the shop” because the fin was hit pretty hard and it actually pushed into the board and exposed the foam. I’m going to post about its “recovery” once it’s all fixed and we’re back in the water!

      • Glad that it was just the board and not a leg! Hopefully you have a second board while this one is in the “Recovery Room”,,,,

      • No I don’t unfortunately. I’m only a humble university student with little to no money. I had to be broke for many months so I could afford the board I have. I’m already saving for my next board which will be a shorter board so I can duckdive into bigger waves. My board at the moment is 7’6 and is teaching me plenty (such as avoiding rocks haha).

  2. As an educator, I know well the plight of the “poor” college student.. In the meantime, keep swimming, stretching, strengthening those muscles you use in surfing and that way when the time is right, you will be back at it.. I enjoyed reading through several of your posts. You have got it figured out… Now, just keep being consistent in this quality life you are forging… Cheers from Oregon..

    • Thank you for reading some of my entries. It means a lot to me.
      I am really loving surfing and I love the new healthy me! It was realising that surfing was about health and being confident rather than looking like Alana Blanchard that inspired me to start this blog.
      I swim a few times a week and I find it really helps my lung capacity and paddling strength/endurance. My board should be fixed in a few days so I’ll be out there again in no time!
      What type of education are you in? I’m doing an Education P-12 (year 0 to 12th grade) degree at university.

      • High School Biology / Human Anatomy / Natural Resources… Sophomore through Seniors (15-18 yrs). It has been a great, if not challenging, career (this is year 27!) Exercise / Fitness has been perhaps one of the most important aspects of life as an educator. It provides not only an improvement to ones physical help, but also mental health as well. Helps to keep that proper balance between work and play, and I believe that fitness should be play! I honestly have never tried to surf but spending time on the water, and recently in that surf zone has given me a great appreciation for the physical demands it places on you…

      • That is an excellent career. I agree about the physical life improves the mental health. I’m living proof!
        I’m majoring in English (Creative Writing) and History, but I’ll think I’ll end up teaching primary (elementary/middle school) because I love working with kids!
        The two biggest fears of mine were waves and deep water, so I can certainly appreciate tackling your fears.
        I find anything water-related, it’s about 30% physical, 70% psychological. The impact zone is a tricky place to be!

      • Agree… But seeing as how a kayaker just might want to land sometime, they have to be able to make it through that zone! I am fortunate to have a good Mentor who is very experienced as well as patient. There are only a couple of sea kayakers who live in our area so finding someone to go out with is difficult. We have been at this since September so to get this far has been pretty exciting… Regarding Education, I spent the first 7 years of my career as a middle school science instructor… I moved to the high school when the opportunity came as I really enjoyed talking with the students as “young adults”… They aren’t so cute and can be pretty set in their ways but it still is rewarding to be able to sit down and hold those important conversations about life…

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