You are reading the written words of the undisputed Victorian Queen of the Nosedive. Thank you, thank you. I’ve worked hard to become as crap a surfer as I can possibly be. Some strong swell and bumpy waves powered by an onshore south-westerly really allowed me to take the crown. My face is red and my pride bruised.
I only spent an hour out in the waves today. I had so many spectacular wipe-outs I felt as though the ocean didn’t deserve to suffer me. The only thing that made me feel better about the whole affair was that a like-skilled surfer to myself was also nosediving in white water just like I was. Yes…white water. The wind was so strong that my board was airborne numerous times as we tackled the impact zone.
Summer where for art thou?
It got me down, having such a hard time in the surf today, but I suppose the only way I can look at it is that a good surfer is born from all conditions. Now that I’m at summer school for university I can’t really pick and choose my surf conditions so I take what I can get. I still feel stoked to be in the water, but it’s a little disheartening when a rascally rogue wave tackles you sideways as you’re catching a wave that’s heading in a different direction. I guess I’d liken today’s conditions to being in a washing machine and trying not to drown.
There are better days ahead. We have a weather forecast coming up that is enough to send people running into the water or air-conditioning (four days of 39 degrees, yes please) and with those hot days will come northerly winds ergo better conditions. Ahhh the blessed northerly. I can’t wait!
Another (though non-condition related) issue I had today was that I have lost more weight this week, therefore my wetsuit no longer fits. I blew up like the Michelin Man! I had to keep pausing to allow gushes of ocean water out of my sleeves and legs. I better start saving now for that size 6 wetsuit ready for autumn!